Posts Tagged ‘trees’

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The three days Nicole and I spent in Victoria were star-studded with beauty and color, but nothing was quite so breathtaking as the Butchart Gardens, just a few minutes north of the city.

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Now a Canadian National Historic Site, the Gardens were the private grounds surrounding the home of Robert and Jennie Butchart. So the place didn’t feel like your average botanical garden or arboretum. There were no exhibit signs, no identifying plaques next to the different flower types, nothing that created the feel of a museum—instead there was the perfect illusion of taking a stroll around the grounds of a palace, or traveling back in time to the days of manor houses and perfectly-maintained estates. Yet this was no exclusive world; the estate is named “Benvenuto” (Italian for “welcome”). The Butcharts welcomed to their home any visitor who wanted to see it, and they were famous for their hospitality. Jennie had reportedly served 18,000 cups of tea to friendly strangers before her family convinced her to charge a nominal admission fee.

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It wasn’t hard to see why the visitors came in droves. Nicole wandered off to admire the variety of blooms, but I stood mesmerized by the light.

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Usually gardens in the Northwest have a somewhat otherworldly glow, what with our silver skies and rainy mists. But in full sunshine, the place was an absolute riot of color.

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I could have spent the whole day just losing myself in the jewel tones all around me.

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But Jennie Butchart’s garden is so much more than a flashy display of color: it’s also a staggering feat of environmental design and land reclamation. Jennie was way ahead of her time.

You see, the Butcharts’ land began as a turn-of-the-century limestone quarry, which supplied Robert’s cement company with raw material. When the quarry was exhausted, all that was left was a barren pit. It was Jennie who had the idea to transform an industrial wasteland into a thing of beauty. She had many tons of topsoil brought in by horse and cart, and over the course of several years, she gradually, patiently reclaimed the land and shaped it into a thriving garden.

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The result is the stunning Sunken Garden, a masterpiece of earthworks and living sculpture. I was expecting the Queen of Hearts to appear around a bend in the path, a flamingo tucked under each arm. The perfect English garden.

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As I continued along the path, suddenly I found myself transported to Versailles

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—and then to Japan.

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Lest I lose my bearings, though, reminders that this is the Northwest were ever-present.

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Jennie’s garden has evolved far beyond a labor of love. It’s truly a national treasure, and an international curiosity—we heard well over a dozen different languages spoken that day, and struck up conversations with people from five different continents.

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Yet despite the flocks of travelers, it was never difficult to find a moment of peaceful, contemplative solitude. I can’t wait to return, and eventually visit Jennie’s garden in every season of the year.

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Commencement Bay from the North End, Tacoma, WA

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Pumpkin patches, Vancouver Island, BC

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First squash haul of the year from Zestful Gardens, Puyallup, WA

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Cranberry harvest, Long Beach, WA

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Japanese maple, Butchart Gardens, Brentwood Bay, BC

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Proctor District in the rain, Tacoma, WA

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St. Johns Bridge, Portland, OR

Have I mentioned that I love autumn in the Northwest?

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I don’t need the calendar to tell me that fall has arrived. For one thing, the enormous garden spiders are back, guarding our house and reveling in the rain that’s come early this year.

For another, when the sun finally came out, and the skies cleared, the air was suddenly crisper, thinner, fragile in its warmth.

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And the trees—

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the trees.

I blinked, and it was autumn.

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Good thing I was paying attention. I don’t want to miss it.

Happy fall, everyone!

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If you’ve been reading this blog for awhile, or you’ve met me or the Tailor, you already know about our penchant for storing food and taking seasonal eating to hardcore extremes. But our nuttiness about walking the talk extends far beyond the pantry. Another aspect of our attempts to live as sustainably as we can is our rejection of synthetic materials. Now, we’ll never live entirely free from petroleum products—we drive a car. We own a refrigerator, a stereo and a plethora of records, tapes, CDs and DVDs. I use a computer, a scanner, a digital camera, and a host of accompanying accessories. I’m not about to buy underwear with a button waist. I gleefully print with photopolymer plates. And we just can’t let go of our small, sentimental collection of deliciously hideous, ancient Tupperware. But all things considered, you’d be hard-pressed to find much plastic in our house. Whenever possible we buy clothing, tools, containers, furniture, and everything else made purely from natural materials: wood, metal, glass, cotton, linen, wool, silk, bamboo, cork, bone, shell. Much of the time, nowadays, that means we have to look for vintage versions of whatever we’re shopping for, but you’d be surprised at what’s available—as long as one is willing to search for it. I know how extreme this position is—and believe me, it’s not something that can be done overnight. This is a process years in the making, and just the fact that we’re still working at it (and probably always will) shows that it’s not for everyone, and certainly not the only solution out there. But the biggest benefit of it all is how long-lasting our belongings are—and when things break, they can usually be mended, rather than thrown away and replaced.

The biggest downside, however, is that by choosing this path we also choose to abstain from some creature comforts and cultural elements that are dated from after the advent of plastic. Most of the time I don’t miss it—or even notice anything lacking. But right now, during the holiday season, I have a fierce craving for twinkle lights that I just have to resist (if anyone can find me twinkle lights made entirely of glass bulbs, metal wire and cloth cord, I’ll be all over it).

Even with our solemn vows to thwart plastic, our search for a Christmas tree left us in some doubt (I grew up with an artificial tree, and have only had one Christmas tree of my own—a real one, three years ago). Is it better to buy a fake tree once or intentionally kill fifty-odd living evergreens in one’s lifetime? Which is worse—fossil fuels or deforestation? How about burning fossil fuels on our way to deforest a section of land?! (The irony of the freshly-killed tree tied to a hippie Subaru in the above photo isn’t lost on me.) And can one family really do so much damage just by celebrating the holidays, or should we just stop worrying so much?

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In the end, we followed the same instincts we rely on for our choice to remain omnivores: we decided on a real tree (after all, we do live in a place with abundant trees that shoot up fast, thanks to our rainy climate), as long as it could be culled responsibly. So we called up some friends who own land near Olympia, and as luck would have it, there were some young Douglas-firs on their property that were scheduled to be removed in the spring.

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A little elbow grease later, we had our Christmas tree.

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It doesn’t have the textbook perfection of a farmed tree, but it looks lovely in the living room, bedecked in handmade and vintage ornaments (I think there are exactly four plastic items contained therein). And as we decorated it on the solstice, I privately gave thanks to the land for contributing to our holiday.

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Now that we live in a house with a fireplace, we can finally hang the stockings by the chimney with care. And with a fireplace comes a mantel just begging to be decorated.

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So another friend invited us to clip some holly branches (holly is a beautiful but noxious weed around here, so pruning is always welcome) from his back yard, and with the help of a little steel wire I whipped up a Christmas garland.

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We used a bit of leftover holly and some cedar prunings for a wreath, and suddenly it was Christmas at our house. So maybe I don’t have my beloved twinkle lights, but somehow it feels better this way. We had a big holiday potluck last night, with thirty or so people crammed into our living and dining rooms, bellowing carol harmonies and exploding crackers and cheering when the Tailor poured blue-flaming brandy on the plum pudding. And nearly every one of them said it felt like their grandmother’s house, or their childhood traditions, or what they imagined of Christmases past. So maybe I don’t so much need that string of lights.

Still, since the moment we decided on a real tree I’ve been reminded of my favorite Robert Frost poem—which might make me all the more conscious of our choice, but also more appreciative of the holiday in general. After all, a Christmas tree is something the city “could not do without and keep its Christmas.”

Christmas Trees
(A Christmas Circular Letter)

The city had withdrawn into itself
And left at last the country to the country;
When between whirls of snow not come to lie
And whirls of foliage not yet laid, there drove
A stranger to our yard, who looked the city,
Yet did in country fashion in that there
He sat and waited till he drew us out
A-buttoning coats to ask him who he was.
He proved to be the city come again
To look for something it had left behind
And could not do without and keep its Christmas.
He asked if I would sell my Christmas trees;
My woods—the young fir balsams like a place
Where houses all are churches and have spires.
I hadn’t thought of them as Christmas Trees.
I doubt if I was tempted for a moment
To sell them off their feet to go in cars
And leave the slope behind the house all bare,
Where the sun shines now no warmer than the moon.
I’d hate to have them know it if I was.
Yet more I’d hate to hold my trees except
As others hold theirs or refuse for them,
Beyond the time of profitable growth,
The trial by market everything must come to.
I dallied so much with the thought of selling.
Then whether from mistaken courtesy
And fear of seeming short of speech, or whether
From hope of hearing good of what was mine,
I said, “There aren’t enough to be worth while.”
“I could soon tell how many they would cut,
You let me look them over.”

“You could look.
But don’t expect I’m going to let you have them.”
Pasture they spring in, some in clumps too close
That lop each other of boughs, but not a few
Quite solitary and having equal boughs
All round and round. The latter he nodded “Yes” to,
Or paused to say beneath some lovelier one,
With a buyer’s moderation, “That would do.”
I thought so too, but wasn’t there to say so.
We climbed the pasture on the south, crossed over,
And came down on the north.
He said, “A thousand.”

“A thousand Christmas trees!—at what apiece?”

He felt some need of softening that to me:
“A thousand trees would come to thirty dollars.”

Then I was certain I had never meant
To let him have them. Never show surprise!
But thirty dollars seemed so small beside
The extent of pasture I should strip, three cents
(For that was all they figured out apiece),
Three cents so small beside the dollar friends
I should be writing to within the hour
Would pay in cities for good trees like those,
Regular vestry-trees whole Sunday Schools
Could hang enough on to pick off enough.
A thousand Christmas trees I didn’t know I had!
Worth three cents more to give away than sell,
As may be shown by a simple calculation.
Too bad I couldn’t lay one in a letter.
I can’t help wishing I could send you one,
In wishing you herewith a Merry Christmas.

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As I’ve mentioned before, I’m currently in the process of researching Mt. Rainier for my next artist book. This involves drawing and photographing the Mountain over and over (and over and over) again, in as many different conditions and from as many different vantage points as possible. I’ll get into the whys and hows some other time, but for now, suffice to say this is a huge challenge. Not only do we have incredibly unpredictable weather here, but Rainier also tends to play by his own rules, appearing and disappearing regardless of any logical connection to the forecast (which, somewhat ironically, is the entire point of my book…).

I’ve done my best to even the odds by doing the bulk of my research during the summer and early fall—traditionally the dry season here. This summer, however, has proven to be about as nontraditional as possible, and has thrown a whole lot of monkey wrenches into the works. For weeks I had planned a long trip to various points east, where the landscape is drastically different than here in the west. But here’s the rub: not only did I require a flawlessly sunny day to view the Mountain from so far away, but the best time to view Rainier from the east is in the morning—I’d have to leave too early to see that day’s weather report. So I waited, and stalked the National Weather Service, and packed and unpacked my gear. During our ridiculous heatwave we had day after day of beautiful sun, but hot weather makes the atmosphere so hazy that even from here, just forty miles away, Rainier was just a faint silhouette. And then it was one excuse after another; either I had an appointment or deadline I couldn’t change, or it was raining, or it was hot and hazy east of the Cascades, or there was a forest fire blocking my path (no joke!). Over a month went by like this, and I could feel my window of opportunity shrinking—many of the roads included in my plans are closed from October through June.

And then, a couple of weeks ago now, it seemed I’d finally get my chance. Every weather report promised dry, cool, sunny weather, for one lovely day, before the gloom closed in again. I packed my drawing paraphernalia, both cold and hot weather gear, a picnic lunch, a pile of atlases and topographic maps (you didn’t think I’d be using GPS, did you? When a letterpress printer marries a geologist, topo maps become a permanent fixture of both studio and science lab!), my camera, and plenty of music in the car, set the alarm for 3:15 am, and went to bed early with my fingers crossed.

By 3:30 I was ready to go. I poked my head outdoors, saw stars overhead, and decided to make a break for it. Two hours later I arrived at my first stop: Tipsoo Lake, just off the road in an alpine meadow. To my immense surprise I wasn’t alone, even at that absurd pre-dawn, Wednesday hour, with the entire meadow blanketed with frost. A pair of photographers arrived just minutes after me and set up tripods nearby, and a friendly Slovak couple emerged from their tent to introduce themselves while we waited for the sun to rise. The biting cold made me question the sanity of this trip, but when the light finally spilled over the ridge to dye the Mountain pink, all my doubts disappeared.

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I stayed just long enough to block in a composition and shoot a few reference photos before the light changed and I lost the moment (I was on a tight timetable all day, so I finished all of these sketches back in the studio). I checked my watch and hit the road again (and waved to the Slovaks as I passed them again, thirty miles later).

From here onward I had to work entirely on conjecture. Tipsoo Lake is a famous, oft-photographed spot, so I knew what sort of composition I wanted. But I had no photo reference for the rest of my guesses that day, only an idea of what I was looking for and a lot of half-memorized topographic maps. I was hoping to capture a scene of Rainier through the iconic apple orchards of Yakima, but I knew (from all the neck-craning I’ve done on previous drives through the region) that for the most part Rainier isn’t visible from the Yakima Valley, where most of the fruit trees are. According to my maps, though, there were some flat, gridded regions at the top of the bluffs overlooking Yakima—I hoped the grid meant farms, and that the extra 600 feet in elevation would be enough for a glimpse of the Mountain. So I made for Selah Heights Road—a hairline even on my most detailed map.

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The road climbed past rows of poplars, trees laden with fruit and sweeping views of the valley; so far, so good.

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And then I found it: just the tip of Mt. Rainier visible between the apple trees. I couldn’t believe my luck. And just as I finished roughing out my drawing (I still had a lot of miles to cover before my next destination, so I worked fast and loose), I glanced to my left and discovered another treat:

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Mt. Adams, for a little extra credit.

After a quick, desperate and delicious coffee in Yakima, I turned south. My next stop was a place I’d never been: the Centerville Valley, a high-plains agricultural area just beyond Goldendale.

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I knew that Adams would be prominently visible from here, but I could only hope that Rainier was as well—it sure would make a pretty picture if it were, I thought.

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Nope, still Adams—although from this angle it tends to fool people (and cows).

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I looked behind me, and saw that the farmland sloped upward a bit, before giving way to the Columbia Hills. So I headed south along a dirt road for about a half mile, parked, and trudged a few yards into a field of wheat stubble.

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Bingo.

The alfalfa blossoms were sheer luck, just like so many other things that day. And that irrigation rig was moving—so I was never more thankful for digital photo technology than that moment (as a die-hard darkroom enthusiast, I never though I’d say that!).

Only one item remained on the itinerary: a narrow, winding goat track called the Dalles Mountain Road.

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The spectacular vista of Adams, Rainier and the valley was just the beginning.

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The road snakes over the top of the Columbia Hills, providing views of five volcanoes (that’s Hood there)…

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pockets of stunning wildflowers…

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and plenty of road-side snacks.

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On the southern slope of the Hills the landscape turns suddenly rocky,

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and the mighty Columbia River bursts into view.

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My research had gone off without a hitch, and right on schedule. It was only just noon: mission accomplished. So to celebrate I stopped for lunch at one of the most stunning picnic spots I’ve ever seen.

From that little patch of grass I could have chosen to go home the way I came, or finish the loop and return along the western side of the Cascades—it was almost perfectly equidistant. So as usual I chose the unknown road, and zipped home via the historic Columbia River Highway.

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Fifteen hours, 515 miles roundtrip. And perfect conditions every step of the way. I think that after a summer of total frustration (remember the airplane incident?), maybe the universe decided to give me a break.

I’ll be sure to send a thank-you note.

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A year ago today our bright yellow moving truck pulled into Tacoma and turned the corner onto a new home, a new career, a new life. Here I am, 365 days later, and I’m still just as excited as on day one. To everyone in T-Town (and Seattle, and Portland, and everywhere in between!) who has welcomed me as one of your own: thank you, with everything I have.

I tend to be a list-maker, constantly looking ahead to what is yet to be done. And as I sifted through the thousands of photos taken over the past year, trying to narrow them down to a few favorites, a whole new to-do list emerged. Despite my best, most frantic efforts, I’ve barely scratched the surface of this new home of mine.

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So I’ve got my work cut out for me. Washington, I’d like to get to know you a little better.

In my (so far) limited experience, Washingtonians tend to be outdoor types—and with good reason. With so much beauty at our fingertips, it’s no wonder that with the first hint of a sunny day, we’re out in force. Add to that the near-clockwork arrival of the dry season by Independence Day, and the fact that huge swaths of the mountains are inaccessible for nine months out of the year—well, you can see where I’m going with this. Since the Fourth of July was kind enough to fall on a Saturday this year, the cities emptied and thousands headed Outward. And this year, though we’re normally Off-Season, Off-the-Beaten-Path types, the Tailor and I were no exception. Like zombies we staggered outdoors to pack our tiny Subaru sedan—must … go … camping!

We knew it was probably folly, but we had a goal in mind: find a beautiful, mountainous campsite away from the teeming hordes. We knew Mount Rainier would be out of the question, as were the Olympic Peninsula, Mount St. Helens, or any other popular tourist destinations—but even though we had a head start by leaving on Thursday afternoon, our hope faded as we saw the crush of fellow vacationers on the freeway. “Camper … camper … RV … canoe … RV … kayaks … cyclists … camper,” the Tailor droned, counting cars, “this was a dumb idea.” Yet as our route took us on smaller and smaller roads, the number of fellow travelers dwindled almost to none. It began to seem like our instincts were right after all.

Our destination? The Morrison Creek Campground, located on the southern slope of Mount Adams, Rainier’s slightly-smaller, lesser-known brother.

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While we were nervous of the possibility of any volcano attracting busloads of holiday tourists, our choice had a couple of points in our favor. For one thing, one can’t reserve a campsite in a national forest; all sites are taken on a first-come, first-served basis. For another, Morrison Creek is in the middle of freakin’ nowhere.


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The only way to get there from the north is to use the system of Forest Service roads that wind through the Gifford-Pinchot National Forest. The paved sections are breathtakingly beautiful and awfully fun to drive (especially with a stick shift; I felt like I was filming a car commercial). The “unimproved” stretches, on the other hand, range from challenging to terrifying. Mindful of the consequences of puncturing an oil pan or snapping an axle on a holiday weekend in one of the most remote pockets of the state, I took my sweet time picking my way around the detritus of recent rock slides and dodging monstrous potholes.

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When we pitched our tent just as the last light faded, however, we knew that it was absolutely worth the trip. Our campsite was in a lovely, secluded spot, adjacent to the Creek, just below the last traces of mountain snow, and surrounded by pockets of blooming beargrass. And to our immense surprise, we had Adams almost entirely to ourselves, for the whole weekend—funny, considering that the next campground, three miles up the road, was crawling with mountain climbers.

I was hoping our travels would afford us at least one view of Rainier in the distance—that way I’d have another sketch to add to my store of potential artist book imagery. FS Route 23, however, doesn’t afford such a vista, and any potential viewpoint reached by hiking trail was well out of range of our abilities. A two-mile hike from our tent did give us a spectacular, alpine-meadow view of Adams, though—and I realized that for my research purposes, I could use the peak as a sort of stunt double.

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From certain angles, Adams is remarkably similar to Rainier (and the two are often mistaken for one another when viewed from a distance). All the more reason to use my time there for drawing. I was surprised to see, however, how drastically Adams’ appearance changed, depending on the vantage point. This is the view from Bird Lake, on Yakama Nation land, just a couple of miles (as the crow flies) east of Morrison Creek:

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And though there was nowhere to sit to capture it in my sketchbook, a gap in the trees gave me the chance to glimpse another stand-in to the south: Mount Hood.

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What an incredible weekend. As you can probably guess, Adams is on the short list for Best Camping Spots Ever, and I’m sure we’ll end up returning again and again. Next time, though, it might behoove us to reconsider our mode of transportation; it’s doable in a compact car (just barely), but I think I’d rather rent a pickup truck—or a mountain goat.

Everywhere I turn I hear complaints about how pokey Spring has been ’round these parts, but I have to say—if this is late, hallelujia anyway. It’s been a long, long time since I’ve lived anywhere that had blossoming trees by early April. We had a late spring in Minneapolis last year, too, which meant that it was Memorial Day before the blooms had anything to say about it (I know, because I was fretting about the bare trees right up until my wedding that weekend).

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My work tends to deal heavily in flowery typography and ornamental Victorian doodads, so this book has become a constant companion. It’s a reprint of an 1897 design primer, and displays a series of increasingly abstracted renderings of various flora, from realistic illustration to graphic pattern.

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Most of the patterns in the book aren’t really my cup of tea, but they get the wheels turning and make me think in terms of filtering my sketches and observations into graphic elements. And since I’m in need of some new reference material, both for upcoming letterpress projects and for the new artist book I’m working on (more on that another time), I thought I’d see what Spring had to show me. So on Thursday Nicole and I took a little field trip to the Washington Park Arboretum in Seattle to grok the blossoms, cameras in hand.

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And boy howdy, those cherry trees weren’t kidding.

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The sun decided to join us, illuminating every perfect bloom in turn.

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A few magnolia varieties were ready for their close-up;

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most of the saucer magnolias, however, thought they’d sit this one out. But those branches! Each tree looked exactly like a candelabra.

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Not to be outdone by the tourist-attracting trees, the shrubs and perennials had their say as well (although this was one of only a few rhododendrons that showed up on time; I guess the rest of them will have their party with the saucer magnolias).

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Even the greenery was super-saturated (no need for Photoshop today!).

I came away with a head full of ideas, and my work cut out for me. I wouldn’t be surprised if my lettering starts sprouting petals. Nicole and I weren’t the only artists out that day, either; Azalea Way was just crawling with oil painters, watercolorists and photographers—and other like-minded folk who seemed to have quit their day jobs to do what they love (there was something very heartening in that thought, and it reinforced my own career choices).

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The ducks, however, were working overtime that day.