Archive for the ‘Travel’ Category

xmas2011_1a_8248

I love it when a journey is required to bring Christmas home.

xmas2011_2_8422

xmas2011_3_8396

xmas2011_4_8382

xmas2011_5_8215

xmas2011_5a_8253

xmas2011_6_8310

xmas2011_7_8323

xmas2011_8_8337

xmas2011_9_8444

xmas2011_10_8537

Hoping yours is holly-jolly, merry and bright.

empress_tea_1_6493

No stay at the Empress is complete without sitting down to Afternoon Tea.

empress_tea_2_6501

Now, I love a good cuppa no matter where I am, but leaning back in a squashy chair and gazing upward at something like this makes every sip a little more special.

empress_tea_3_6522

The Empress has been pouring tea every afternoon since it opened in 1908—it was the first venue in Victoria to offer it to the public.

empress_tea_4_6511

For over a century it’s been one of the city’s biggest tourist draws, but it was easy to forget all about the crowds. Somehow it felt like a quiet, private meal at the home of a dowager aunt. Not normally my, uh, cup of tea, but I loved how unexpectedly cozy it was.

empress_tea_5_6542

The scones made me miss the Tailor. He would have loved them—and then tried to figure out the recipe.

empress_tea_6_6529

The savory course, however, was to die for. It was a curious, perfect mix of England (curried chicken, cucumber finger sandwiches) and the Pacific Northwest (best smoked salmon ever). Two months later, I can’t even look at this photo without the memories flooding my taste buds and making me salivate.

empress_tea_7_6549

The Inner Harbour just outside the window, a good friend across the table, and a seemingly endless array of flavors to hand:

empress_tea_8_6520

the perfect recipe for a relaxing Sunday afternoon.

victoria_1_6275

Yeah, I know. It’s a week before Christmas, and Hanukkah starts tomorrow. Our tree is up, and we even had our mega-huge holiday party last night (62 people—a new record!). But somehow, my mind is occupied with red-gold maples, not flocked evergreens. Maybe it’s the fact that everyone’s lawns are at their greenest at this time of year. Or maybe it’s the knowledge that once these Festivals of Light are over, there’s still a whole lot of actual winter darkness and that Northwestern silver-grey pall to overcome before the sun returns. Whatever it is, I’m not quite ready to let go of autumn yet. So in between the holiday records and the hall-decking, I find myself poring over my fall photos.

victoria_2_6227

Autumn is always my favorite time of year, and this was a particularly good one. We had far more sunny days than we have any right to expect in the Northwest, but that’s not the half of it. This was my thirtieth fall, so for me, there just seemed to be a hint of celebration in the air.

victoria_3_5574

And so to start our next decade off with a bang, Nicole (who also turned thirty this fall) and I spent three glorious days in Victoria, British Columbia.

victoria_4_5367

In order to catch the the morning ferry to Vancouver Island, we had to leave T-Town at oh-dark-thirty to reach Port Angeles at sunrise.

victoria_5_7020

With views like this as a reward, though, it was hard to complain about the pre-dawn slog. The tall cups of hot, strong coffee keeping our hands warm didn’t hurt, either.

victoria_6_6958

After a ninety-minute crossing over the Strait

victoria_7_5563

—and a tight squeeze through the snug Inner Harbour—there we were.

victoria_8_6319

We checked into our hotel,

victoria_9_6636

and then set out to see the sights—those just around the corner,

victoria_10_6580

and a few slightly farther afield.

victoria_11_6738

We couldn’t have asked for better weather for exploring the city,

victoria_12_6757

or better light for showing off its photogenic side.

victoria_13_6336

And whenever our overstimulated brains needed a break from all the grandeur, we could turn our attention to sights both quaint—

victoria_14_6644

and cute (as a button).

victoria_15_6411

My favorite thing about Victoria, though, was discovering a visual melting pot of Old-World and New-World,

victoria_16_6699

of East and West.

victoria_17_6380

When I think of the American West, what usually stands out in my mind are dramatic natural vistas with little or no human presence. So standing on the other side of the border, and seeing an English-style Parliament complex just a stone’s throw from rugged mountains and First-Nations totems was a little jarring at first glance. But then I realized that Victoria isn’t necessarily a city of contrasts, but something else altogether: a blend of all the best parts of the cultures and environments that have come together here. It was both comfortably routine and utterly foreign at the same time.

victoria_18_6368

And I remembered that all my experiences in Canada have been like that: an unexpected twist on something very familiar. Always at hand is the feeling of great adventure in a strange land—and the sense that home is just around the corner.

soapbox_1

It’s hard to ignore the news of protests occupying the attention of cities around the world—of the many and diverse thousands of people unified under one simple, yet infinitely faceted mantra. As members of the, well, vast majority of folks without any real political or financial clout in the world, Jessica and I can get behind their message—but that’s not so much the point. What really amazes us is that with a little tenacity and strength in numbers, the powerless can suddenly become very powerful, indeed.

It made us think of a woman who, despite having a famous sibling, would have disappeared into obscurity but for the simple act of picking up a pen.

My power was allways small tho my will is good.  —Jane Mecom

Jane’s eminent brother, on the other hand, had a little more faith:

Energy and persistence conquer all things.  —Benjamin Franklin

Jane had both energy and persistence in spades, although we marvel at how she managed it, with twelve kids, a family business and a house perpetually full of boarders to occupy her attention. Yet of Benjamin’s sixteen siblings, Jane is the only one whose story has survived the 200+ years since her death—all because she committed her thoughts to paper. So in honor of Ben and Jane’s relationship, and in solidarity with those who find the strength to speak up, we present our first dual Dead Feminist broadside, Signed, Sealed, Soapbox.

soapbox_2

Since this is also our first print that features a male Dead Feminist (nope, you don’t have to be a woman to be a feminist), we thought it deserved a little something extra. So we set it up like a conversation—or in this case, a written correspondence. Besides, there was just so much historical ground to cover—even condensing the information to a blog post is a challenge, let alone plucking two sentences from a lifetime of dialogue. (If you haven’t already guessed, this post is a long one. Grab a cuppa if you dare to settle in!)

soapbox_6

Buried in the stacks of our excellent public library, I uncovered an obscure tome: The Letters of Benjamin Franklin and Jane Mecom by Carl van Doren. The book chronicles their entire surviving correspondence—98 letters in all, printed in full. I was a little worried that the writing style of the day would make even skimming for quotes a chore—but in truth, I couldn’t put it down. It was like peering into the lives of any two ordinary people who happened to care for each other very much. There’s humor, and worried advice, and gossip, and gentle sarcasm, and the occasional scolding (usually on Jane’s part) when one or the other let too much time pass between letters. Most of all, there’s love—it’s there on every page. After all of that, we couldn’t just limit the broadside to a couple of one-liners. So the quotes are accompanied by excerpts from their actual letters, each calligraphed as closely as possible to Ben and Jane’s actual handwriting. Even the spelling errors and colonial-era grammar are intact; we figured it was better not to mess with history.

soapbox_3

Jane’s excerpted letter:

I have wrote & spelt this very badly but as it is to Won who I am sure will make all Reasonable allowances for me and will not let any won Els see it I shall venter to send it & subscrib my Self yr Ever affectionat Sister, Jane Mecom.

Ben’s reply:

Is there not a little Affectation in your Apology for the Incorrectness of your Writing? Perhaps it is rather fishing for Commendation. You write better, in my Opinion, than most American Women. Believe me ever Your loving Brother, B. Franklin.

There are few Founding Fathers more famous than Ben Franklin, but Jane was somewhat of a mystery. What we do know is that she had a very different life than her illustrious brother. Thanks to the simple fact of having been born female, her youth was spent having babies rather than obtaining an education. Her life was marked with misfortune, poverty and the deaths of nearly everyone she loved. Yet through it all she craved knowledge, and read everything she could get her hands on. She was a skilled craftsperson, making the famed Franklin Crown Soap and teaching the trade to others. And she followed her brother’s career with pride—and he supported her in return, both financially and emotionally.

soapbox_philada_0273

On my epic road trip with the Tailor this summer (about which I still owe you serious bloggage), our path took us through both Boston and Philadelphia—ye olde stomping grounds for Doctor Franklin. I had the library book of letters with me on the trip (thank goodness for online renewals), so their words lent an interesting depth to my wanderings.

soapbox_philada_printshop_0287

In Philadelphia, I visited Ben’s print shop and post office, and, well, geeked out a little bit.

soapbox_philada_0489

It was my first trip to Philly, but even without prior knowledge of the place,

soapbox_philada_0254

Edit: not actually Ben. This is William Penn. Shows how much I know. Still, from 500 feet below, that haircut looks awfully Franklin-like.

it didn’t take long to discover that Ben is everywhere.

soapbox_boston_8242

But Boston is a hometown of sorts, so it was there that I did the most digging.

soapbox_boston_8547

And it turned out that digging was necessary. With so many Revolutionary War heroes to honor there, the Franklin family’s presence is far more subtle. And Jane? Well, she’s almost nowhere to be found.

Almost.

soapbox_boston_8486

This plaque is all that’s left of the house where Jane spent all her life.

soapbox_boston_8483

It was knocked down to make room for a memorial to this guy. The plaque does mention her briefly, but not by name. Another hazard of being female in the eighteenth century, I suppose.

But Jane did live through the Revolutionary war—in fact, as a resident of the North End, her home was right in the thick of it. In 1775 she fled the British-occupied city and took refuge with friends near Providence, Rhode Island. There, Ben came to rescue her. He took her to Philadelphia, where she spent a year with him before returning to a liberated Boston. While that year was full of turmoil and uncertainty for the citizens of the newly declared United States, 1776 was quite possibly the best year of Jane’s life. For the first time in ages, she could bask in her beloved brother’s company—and he made time for her despite being busy with other things—and as the honored guest she was largely free from work and family duty.

As far as I can tell, it was also the last time she ever laid eyes on him. And even that was a rare treat—between Ben’s high-profile career and the then-formidable distance between Boston and Philadelphia, it was impossible for them to visit one another more than a handful of times in their entire lives. And since it would have taken weeks for a letter to cross five states, and months to traverse the ocean to reach Ben in France, it’s a wonder they remained as close as they did all their lives. Lends a whole new meaning to “snail mail,” doesn’t it?

soapbox_4

Signed, Sealed, Soapbox is illustrated with the sweeping curves of ornate penmanship and the detailed linework of colonial engravings. A faux-bois forest of branches and flowers resembles the printed toile fabrics of the day. The swoops and swirls of the calligraphy rest in stately Wedgwood blue (complimented by a telltale vase at the bottom!), while Ben and Jane’s correspondence occupies a buttery yellow letter edged like a vintage postage stamp.

And though there is no surviving likeness of Jane Mecom, she deserves so much more than the portrait of a Jane Doe. Instead, she is made in the image of The Comtesse d’Haussonville by French painter Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres.

soapbox_5

Ben was the best big brother Jane could have asked for. So in honor of his positive influence, we’ll be donating a portion of our proceeds to the Puget Sound chapter of Big Brothers, Big Sisters—an organization dedicated to providing children facing adversity with mentor relationships that change their lives for the better, forever.

Signed, Sealed, Soapbox: No. 14 in the Dead Feminists series
Edition size: 176
Poster size: 10 x 18 inches

Printed on an antique Vandercook Universal One press, on archival, 100% rag (cotton) paper. Each piece is numbered and signed by both artists.

Colophon reads:
Jane (Franklin) Mecom (1712 – 1794) was born in Boston’s North End, the youngest daughter of a soap maker. Married at fifteen, she had no formal education but was a voracious reader of books supplied by her brother. She ran a boarding house and made soap to support her ailing husband, her elderly parents and her twelve children. She outlived all but one of them. Her “Book of Ages” chronicles the deaths of these loved ones, but what little we know of Jane herself can be traced to a lifetime of correspondence with her beloved brother.

Benjamin Franklin (1706 – 1790) attended school for just two years before becoming a printer’s apprentice at age twelve, but was eventually awarded honorary degrees from Harvard, Yale and Oxford. He founded the first lending library in America, reformed the colonial postal system and became the first U.S. Postmaster General. He espoused the values of thrift, hard work, education, community spirit and tolerance, and opposed authoritarianism in both religion and politics.

Despite the differences in their education and circumstances, Benjamin largely treated his sister as an equal, and penned more letters to her than any other person in his life. He sent his writings and political essays to get Jane’s opinion, and notable figures of the day visited her to pay their respects out of deference to the famous Franklin. Benjamin provided decades of financial support for Jane and her children, and upon his death bequeathed her a comfortable living — as well as public trusts to the cities of Boston and Philadelphia to fund mortgages, school scholarships and eventually establish the Franklin Institute of Technology.

Illustrated by Chandler O’Leary and printed by Jessica Spring, 100% occupied with Benjamin’s wise words — and deeds — as he signed the Declaration of Independence: “Yes, we must, indeed, all hang together, or most assuredly we shall all hang separately.”

Price: $35

Available now in our new Dead Feminists shop!

We’re hiding a whole bunch of new things up our sleeves—to be revealed as soon as we can. But we’re going to take a little bit of time to make sure we do them right. So we’re taking February off—the next Dead Feminist broadside will be released in May 2012. In the meantime, keep your eyes peeled for other surprises!

autumn_1_5327

Commencement Bay from the North End, Tacoma, WA

autumn_2_6166

Pumpkin patches, Vancouver Island, BC

autumn_3_7181

First squash haul of the year from Zestful Gardens, Puyallup, WA

autumn_4_5138

Cranberry harvest, Long Beach, WA

autumn_5_5623

Japanese maple, Butchart Gardens, Brentwood Bay, BC

autumn_6_7126

Proctor District in the rain, Tacoma, WA

autumn_7_7152

St. Johns Bridge, Portland, OR

Have I mentioned that I love autumn in the Northwest?

bellocchio_1_4332

You already know that I have a thing for hidden, quiet spaces tucked away within large cities. So imagine my delight when Jessica turned me onto this place.

bellocchio_2_4337

Bell’occhio has quickly become my favorite (and most regularly visited) haunt in San Francisco. It’s easy to miss—it’s just a few steps off of the main drag of Market Street, but the little lane upon which it’s situated is so quiet that it seems transplanted from a different era.

bellocchio_3_4328

The feeling doubles as soon as you step foot inside the shop. The place is a living, breathing Kunstkammer, with all manner of beautiful odds and ends you never knew you so desperately needed.

My favorite part, though, is the overall presentation. All her inventory is kept in baskets, drawers and wooden cabinets, like a Victorian general store. Each price tag is hand-calligraphed in flowing script. And whenever you purchase something (and I just dare you to visit and not buy something!), your items are packed in vellum envelopes and muslin drawstring bags. Which just about makes me swoon.

bellocchio_4_4327

The owner, Claudia Schwartz, was very kind to let me take a few photos and spread the word about the place. She opened Bell’occhio in 1988, but now that this sort of aesthetic is all the rage again, I’m sure she runs a huge risk of having her ideas lifted by copycats. Ever walk into an Anthropologie? I’m pretty sure they stole their whole schtick from her. So Claudia, thank you for allowing me to share your world.

bellocchio_5_4329

Now, whenever I return to San Francisco, I have a separate Bell’occhio budget—as crazy as that sounds. It’s the one recommendation I can offer if you’re going to come here. Otherwise, this place will have you impulse-buying before you can say, “I’ll take three of those!”

telegraph_hill_1_4632

Since I’ve had parrots on the brain for so long, I thought it would make a fitting end to my San Francisco trip to go in search of them. You see, according to legend documented fact, San Francisco has a wild population of feral parrots—if that isn’t nautically themed, I don’t know what is. Yarr!

So I recruited Sarah and Jesse to complete the quest, and we planned to set out after breakfast. I’d been told, however, that while popular culture has named them “the parrots of Telegraph Hill,” they didn’t actually spend much time there—so we had no idea where to look for them.

telegraphhill_2_map

Jessica’s uncle, who’s lived in SF for decades, came to the rescue. He told me that actually, Telegraph Hill was a good place to look on Sunday mornings in September, and even if I didn’t find any birds, it made for a nice wooded walk. He even scribbled a little map to show me a likely spot. Somehow, that little gesture made the whole thing a hundred times more exciting—I tend to explore cities without atlases or guides (or Googles) anyway, so this little scrap of paper turned a morning hike into a treasure hunt.

telegraph_hill_3_6238

Now, I’m not sure exactly what I was expecting, but I’m a northern gal, so when somebody suggests walking through the woods, this is what pops into my head.

telegraph_hill_4_4748

This, on the other hand, was a surprise.

telegraph_hill_5_4730

Compared to the mossy pines and cedars in my frame of reference, Telegraph Hill felt like a tropical jungle.

telegraph_hill_6_4743

We had the place almost entirely to ourselves—it was a dark, dreary day, which discouraged all the sun-lovers. So as we wound our way up the steps, it felt like we’d stumbled upon our own private garden, or maybe a path to some other world.

telegraph_hill_7_4715

It was easy to forget that we were in the heart of a densely packed city (in California, no less)—this felt more like a secret, slightly English enclave through which we’d been granted safe passage.

telegraph_hill_8_4768

Around every bend was a door, or a courtyard, or another track. Each felt like a gateway to something else, to maybe more and more and more worlds beyond our little slice of perception. It was a hint that what we could see was just the beginning—that what we couldn’t see was out of reach, and all the more tempting for it.

telegraph_hill_9_4719

That sort of feeling is just my cup of tea, you know?

telegraph_hill_10_4727

Every time that pleasant disorientation threatened to overwhelm me, though, out popped little hints of where I really was.

telegraph_hill_11_4697

And whenever the trees gave way to open sky, guide posts appeared, showing us the way back—

telegraph_hill_12_4704

and reminding us that reality was a stone’s throw away.

telegraph_hill_13_4691

I almost forgot that we were even looking for parrots.

telegraph_hill_14_4660

At the top of the hill, we heard a telltale squawking. I glanced up to catch a quick glimpse of two green birds with long tailfeathers speeding away to the west—unfortunately, my shutter finger wasn’t fast enough on the draw.

telegraph_hill_15_4669

It’s like a ‘Where’s Waldo’ of SF—can you spot Lombard Street? The Golden Gate?

Oh, well. The view alone was the perfect end to the walk.

telegraph_hill_16_4674

The vista of pastel stucco seemed like a gift, a reward at the end of an uncertain journey. It reminded me of what I love most about the place: that the city itself is like a garden of color—an urban forest in bloom.

* * *

Thank you so much for the amazing response you’ve had to the Apocalypse Calendar! Literally overnight you’ve helped us raise over $1000. We have until the clock strikes midnight on Halloween to reach our goal—thank you for helping us get there!

roadworks_1a_4633

It’s hard to think of a better weekend activity than taking a quick trip to San Francisco.

roadworks_01_4806

First of all, Jessica and I got to visit the lovely Sarah and Jesse, who live here—

roadworks_02_4314

and whose back yard contains this,

roadworks_03_4320

and this.

roadworks_1_4413

And then we got to raise a fantastic ruckus and make guerrilla street art with a whole bunch of people looking on.

roadworks_2_4603

SFCB’s got this thing down to a science. Between the small army of volunteers who took care of the inking and registration (line-up),

roadworks_3_4429

and their probably-patented methods for keeping street schmutz off the prints, the results were impressive. In fact, this is my fourth steamroller print (and Jessica’s fifth), and I’ve never seen one turn out this well before.

roadworks_4_4471

Besides, we really needed to keep our hands clean this time, because we upped our personal ante and just plunked ourselves down on the sidewalk for a bit of on-the-fly hand-coloring (though avoiding the very wet ink felt kind of like playing Twister).

roadworks_5_4473

That turned out to be the perfect tag-team job, actually. I do a lot of hand-coloring when I print, as you know, but never anything this big—

roadworks_6_4483

having two sets of hands to blend colors and two sets of eyes to look for missed spots was definitely the way to go.

roadworks_7_4637

So thar she blows. Let me introduce you to Eliza Thorrold, and our latest honorary Dead Feminist print, Even Keel. Eliza was the first licensed female tugboat master on San Francisco Bay. After Charles, her husband who piloted the Ethel & Marion before her, died an untimely death, she fought for and received her operator’s license to continue their tug business in his stead and provide for her family. Her quote says it all: “My circumstances compel me to become master of my own boat.” Hear, hear, Eliza.

After she left the high seas and entered retirement as a landlubber, she became master of her own taffy pull by opening a successful ice cream and candy shop with her son. Hence all that salt water taffy. And as if the nautical sweet-shop theme weren’t enough, we couldn’t resist throwing in all our favorite things about San Francisco. So go hunting around the image, and see what you turn up. Then, on your next trip to the City by the Bay, visit the San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park, and learn more about Eliza’s life and those of other women mariners.

roadworks_8_4649

We weren’t the only ones that day who focused on San Francisco for our steamroller print (sorry for the bad images here; conditions weren’t exactly ideal). We were in total awe of what our fellow printers whipped up—like this fabulous Go-zirrah by Eric Rewitzer.

roadworks_9_4644

And this stunning piece (called Dürer 1510, by Rik Olson) was so chock-a-block with gorgeous, make-you-cry detail that I had to skip the big picture and zoom right in.

roadworks_10_4565

So, yeah. It might not fit the traditional idea of a productive weekend, but it’ll do. We came away with new friends, blue fingertips and a whole lot of ideas to make our own humble little steamroller party better.

roadworks_11_4350

Many thanks to all the staff and volunteers of the San Francisco Center for the Book, who made the day a smashing success—

roadworks_12_4356

and to all the kindred spirits who lent a whole bunch of helping hands. Like the super-nice TSA employee who took such great care of our linoleum block and didn’t bat an eye that we had to bring something so huge and bizarre onto an airplane. Like Sarah, who manned our table; and Jesse, who shot most of the photos; and the huge, huggable posse of Jessica’s extended family, who helped schlep things and kept us company and bought us beignets. And especially Jessica’s ten-year-old niece, Luciana, who basically designed our table arrangement. ‘Ciani, you’re one awesome ragazza.

roadworks_13_4625

And of course, to Eliza—thanks for standing proud at the helm.

weheartsf_1_4274

Splurging on a giant bag of salt water taffy is probably a weird way to research a new project, but I swear it’s relevant.

weheartsf_2_4287

That’s right—Jessica and I are carving again. We’ve been invited by the good folks at the San Francisco Center for the Book (big shout-out to the amazing Rocket!) to be among the featured artist at their eighth-annual Roadworks festival this weekend! Needless to say, we’re super excited.

So if you’re in the Bay Area, swing on by the Potrero and check it out—it promises to be a real hootenanny. The party will be taking up a whole block, chock full of artist vendors, food carts, letterpress demos, and, of course, steamroller printing! And since these guys are rumored to be the original, no-kidding inventors of steamroller printing, they’ll show you how it’s done, for real. Here’s the scoop:

Roadworks 2011
Saturday, September 24
12 to 5 pm, Free!
Hosted by the San Francisco Center for the Book
Rhode Island Street, between 16th and 17th Streets
San Francisco, CA
More information and artist roster here

As a bonus, stick around afterward for a gallery reception for the steamroller prints at 6 pm. There’ll be drinks, music, and a whole lot of loopy artists covered in ink.

weheartsf_3_4295

We’ve designed a brand-new, San Francisco-themed, honorary Dead Feminist for the occasion. I won’t reveal who she is until we get back, but here’s a hint: she knew her way around a fo’c’sle and a taffy pull equally well.

And of course, in honor of our muse, we’ll be sharing that salt water taffy at our table. It’s the good stuff, we promise. (Well, we had to sample it, didn’t we?)

See you in San Francisco!

asheville_3547_1

Many of my favorite towns (Boulder, Missoula, Portland, the other Portland, Duluth, Tacoma, Providence, etc.) seem to be kindred spirits to one another. There’s something about the coming-together of historic architecture, blue-collar grittiness, a population full of creative-types and surrounding natural beauty that…well, for which I’m a total sucker. So based on all the reports over the years I’ve had about Asheville, I knew it was going to be my kinda place.

asheville_2806_2

When Jessica and I were there last month for the Ladies of Letterpress Conference, we made sure to give ourselves plenty of extra time to go exploring.

asheville_3540_3

Asheville is nestled in the thick of the Blue Ridge Mountains, which turned nearly every direction we looked into a beautiful panorama.

asheville_2749_4

The lush, southern climate gave us the feeling that we were walking through an urban greenhouse. Everything was in full bloom and living color.

asheville_3478_5

The city’s history is visible around every well-preserved corner. And if you’re into ghost signs, the place is a dream come true.

asheville_2790_6

Unfortunately, ghost signs are often present in towns that are slowly withering—but that was far from the case here. Despite an economically troubled past, Asheville is a vibrant, active city—

asheville_2777_7

complete with a fierce sense of local pride. We saw some variation of these signs in every shop and restaurant window, over and over again. (Which gave us some seriously good ideas for Tacoma…)

asheville_2752_8

But above all, there was a comfortable sense of down-home warmth in every quarter. Everyone we met was sweet as pecan pie, and the whole place seemed to invite us to settle in and relax. And the rocking chairs! I swear, we saw them everywhere—even at the airport! That’s a tradition I can get behind—I mean, sit down upon.

asheville_3514_9

I could go on and on all day about Asheville’s charms as a city, but what I really want to talk about is the food. Oh, my the food. And I know that saying so doesn’t exactly make me your typical Yankee, but I have a real thing for Southern cuisine. And after trying a new restaurant at every interval for five days, I’m convinced that it’s nigh impossible to have a bad meal in Asheville.

asheville_3566_10

I’ll never understand the point of chain restaurants. When I travel, I’m not interested in the generic food you can get anywhere in America—I want local flavor. When in Rome, you know? So whenever I’m in a new place, I usually order whatever the restaurant is particularly known for, which is often some sort of local specialty. It’s never steered me wrong.

asheville_3558_crop_11

So at Early Girl, I had the shrimp n’ grits. What’s more Southern than that? And more importantly, what could possibly be more tasty? As if that weren’t enough, the garnish on the grits was the fact that everything on the menu was locally sourced, and whenever possible, organic. Plus, they served the real, no-kidding, hard-core stone-ground coarse grits—the ones the Tailor and I love so much that we actually order them from a North Carolina mill and have them shipped out west as one of our staple grains. Yeah, I know we’re weird like that.

asheville_3405_12

The Southern boasted both local and seasonal fare (and terrible lighting for photographs, sorry)—

asheville_3424_13

and their peach, pecan, goat cheese and honey salad was like summer on a plate.

asheville_3250_crop_14

When a large group of letterpress folks joined us at Salsa’s, Southern cookin’ wasn’t exactly on the menu, but I stuck with my rule-of-thumb about the house specialty, and as usual, it was the right choice. This time I ordered their famous molcajete, a traditional Mexican mortar-and-pestle carved out of basalt, heated to something like earth-core temperatures, and filled with a molten and unbelievably delicious stew. The secret ingredient was goat cheese again, which is always a-okay with me. Besides, for someone who loves nerdy scientific things like specific heat, this dinner took the cake—even though it was nearly an hour before I could eat it without my mouth catching fire.

asheville_3578_15

Now, I like lemonade, sweet tea and unsweet tea as much as the next gal, but I’ve always been a coffee drinker. And after three years as a transplanted Northwesterner, I’m a total convert to the coffee culture; a late-morning walk just doesn’t feel right without a cuppa. It was 95 muggy degrees outside, so an iced Americano hit the spot—and at the Battery Park Book Exchange, they’ll serve it to you in snazzy wine glasses and let you while away the whole caffeinated day paging through the impressive North Carolina section.

asheville_3595_16

One of the people we befriended at the conference is an Asheville native who let us in on the secret about where to get the best dessert in town.

asheville_3452_17

Handmade chocolates. ‘Nuff said.

asheville_2667_18

Still, it was the Southern classics I was most hungry for—like this gigantic sweet potato pancake at the Tupelo Honey Cafe. It came garnished with spicy pecans and escorted by a side of grits with—you guessed it—goat cheese. Like nearly every other meal I had in Asheville, it was light and deftly made (though impossible to finish!), and completely unlike the heavy, greasy stereotype people have in their heads. With each bite I was more and more baffled by the idea that anyone could dislike Southern food.

asheville_2803_19

Of course, no sojourn below the Mason-Dixon Line would be complete (for omnivores, at least) without a taste of authentic, heart-attack-inducing Southern barbeque. To get our fix, Jessica and I headed for Luella’s.

asheville_2799_20

Neither of us could decide, so we ended up eating family-style and sharing our entrees. I picked the giant stuffed baked potato with everything plus the kitchen sink and a coronary on it (shown here with a bit of Jessica’s spare ribs)—which was fantastic, truly, but it was the hush puppies that stole the show. Best. Freaking. Hush puppies. Ever. I think the secret is in the shape—greater crispy-to-fluffy ratio. Yum.

asheville_2812_crop_21

But my favorite meal of the trip was one that will probably live in my all-time top ten forever: fried-green-tomato eggs Benedict (with a side of grits, natch!) at the Over Easy Cafe. I still dream about that one.

asheville_3543_22

I’m also still dreaming of that blue haze. Whether it’s for the local flavor or the letterpress gals, the hush puppies or the hills, you can bet I’ll be back.