Archive for the ‘Sustainability’ Category

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As I explained last time, filling our shopping cart with vintage Tupperware and thrift-store tins might prove we’re crazy, but there’s at least one element of buying organic food in bulk that’s decidedly sane. My favorite thing about shopping organic, and the absolute best-kept secret of the food co-op world, is the spice section.

Just like the grain, pasta, bean, nut and flour bins, our store (as well as most other co-ops and many natural food stores) has almost every conceivable herb and spice in bulk jars, tidily arranged in alphabetical order.

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The idea is that you bring your own jars (or use the paper or plastic bags provided by the store; we bring old spice jars saved from our old shopping days, or discarded by friends and family), and pay only for the weight of the spice itself—not for packaging or branding. Just like with our other jars and tins, we mark each spice jar with the tare weight and PLU number, and fill ‘er up. This way, we only buy what we want—that’s great for spices we might only use for one recipe.

Reducing our amount of trash is only half of it—the real virtue of bulk spices is the price. To give you a little comparison, I compared the prices of what we bought at the co-op with what’s for sale at a conventional grocery store not far from our house. I’m comparing the co-op prices with non-organic spices at the grocery store, because not only is that what most people buy, but the sticker shock is crazy enough without comparing organic to organic!

Now, while I was researching this post, I discovered that grocery stores (including our co-op) are extremely touchy on the subject of price—carrying a camera with me must have made me seem like a secret shopper or something, because I had to answer to a co-op employee for what I was doing. So to protect their “anonymity,” I’ll just say that the local conventional grocery store has the word “Safe” in its name. Ha. (I have to say, though, that no fewer than twelve different employees there asked me if I was finding everything okay. Either jotting prices down with paper and pen and leaving empty-handed looked suspicious, or they were just very helpful folk.)

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Anyway, here’s a snippet of our most recent co-op receipt. If you look closely at the per-pound price, the spices seem expensive—but look again. We paid $3.42 for 0.29 pounds (just over 4.6 ounces) of organic whole black peppercorns. A 4.25-ounce bottle of McCormick’s conventional (non-organic) peppercorns at the regular grocery store goes for $5.49. So we saved a little bit there, and got an organic product out of the deal.

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Now for the real magic. Peppercorns are relatively heavy, so the price comparison to packaged spices isn’t spectacular—but take a look at some common powdered spices and dried herb leaves, like this organic parsley, priced at $18.69 a pound.

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We paid 37 cents for that parsley—0.02 pounds or 0.32 ounces of it—and that jar is a reused McCormick’s jar (those fancy-branded glass ones). A slightly larger, 0.5-ounce jar of name-brand (i.e McCormick’s) non-organic parsley? $3.49. That’s $111.68 a pound! I don’t know about you, but to me that’s completely nuts. And let’s not forget that some herbs and spices, especially dried parsley, don’t stay fresh for long. We almost never get through our jar of parsley before bugs get in there (and they do, let’s face it). I’d rather have to waste 37 cents’ worth of parsley than three-and-a-half bucks.

How about some other examples? Let’s run down our grocery list.

Co-op: Organic thyme leaf, 0.05 lb (0.8 oz): $0.49, at $16.39/lb
Grocery store: Non-organic: $4.09 for a 0.37 oz bottle, or $176.86/lb

Co-op: Organic rubbed sage, 0.03 lb (0.48 oz): $0.82, at $16.19/lb
Grocery store: Non-organic: $4.59 for a 0.5 oz bottle, or $146.88/lb

Co-op: Organic rosemary, 0.06 lb (0.96 oz): $0.62, at $10.39/lb
Grocery store: Non-organic: $4.79 for a 0.35 oz bottle, or $218.97/lb (!)

Co-op: Organic whole bay leaf, 0.02 lb (0.32 oz): $0.39, at $19.29/lb
Grocery store: Non-organic: $3.39 for a 0.12 oz bottle, or $452.00/lb (!!)

Holy cow. Forget any debates about organic farming—let’s talk about highway robbery.

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You can also buy many baking supplies,

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or hey, even coffee and tea in bulk, if it floats your boat. (Tea will likely save you some money, but the various baking ingredients probably won’t. We buy our coffee and tea elsewhere, so I won’t get into that.)

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And there’s one more juicy secret about the bulk section: liquids.

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Not every co-op has this, but if you can find a place that sells bulk liquids (maple syrup, honey, extracts, vegetable oils, etc.—though I’ve never seen peanut oil in bulk, and I don’t know why that is), you’re golden. Buying maple syrup in bulk will usually save you a huge bundle, compared to those little glass bottles that can go for up to $30 a pint. This time we happened to stock up on vanilla extract (the real thing, not the fake stuff), so I’ll compare that to what the “Safe” grocery store has to offer.

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Co-op: Non-organic (that’s all they have) vanilla extract, 4 oz: $1.96, at $7.84/pint (16 oz)
Grocery store: Non-organic vanilla, McCormick’s: $7.19 for a 2 oz bottle, or $57.52/pint
Grocery store: Non-organic vanilla store brand: $4.49 for a 1 oz bottle, or $71.84/pint

Deceiving Interesting that the generic store brand was more expensive than the name brand. They even had a 4-oz jug of organic vanilla for cheaper, at $9.99 a bottle ($39.96 a pint)—I’ll give it the benefit of the doubt, and tell myself it was on sale or something. Still can’t touch the co-op, though.

Your mileage may vary, of course, but if you’re wondering whether it’s worth the effort to buy spices in bulk, go ahead and bring a calculator the next time you go shopping. For us, it’s a no-brainer. The money we save every year on spices is plenty enough to justify the larger budget required for the certified-organic meat we buy—that’s the subject of the next post.

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Thanks for all the comments and emails in response to the last post. One email asked how to find a co-op in one’s region; I did a little digging, and it seems like they’re all over the place. Visit www.coopdirectory.org to find information for hundreds of co-ops around the country, and even a few internationally.

Minnesota comes in first, with a staggering forty-one food co-ops (forty-two are listed, but the North Country Co-op went out of business a couple of years ago)—far more than both New York and California, the seemingly “obvious” states. We’ve got twenty-three here in Washington, and even tiny Vermont has fifteen. The only state that wasn’t listed as having a co-op is Alabama.

The fact that so many of these things (not to mention all the natural food stores and conventional markets with bulk sections) exist means that stores are listening to their customers, and providing more and more choices for all of us. I think that many stores depend on the fact that many people shop out of habit, simply trusting stores to have reasonable prices and healthy items. And co-ops face not only the huge marketing budgets and competitive tactics of corporate grocery chains (I don’t shop at Trader Joe’s because they moved in right next door to our co-op—eat it, Trader Joe’s!), but also the perception that organic always equals expensive. But between the variety of bulk foods now available and the heightened awareness of many shoppers armed with calculators, I really think this is beginning to change.

And that’s a heartening thought.

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I’ve been working on this post for days—when I finally realized it was Tuesday and I hadn’t surfaced for over a week, I decided to break this down into several parts and show you what I have so far. But before I get into just how nutty we are, let me give you an update on our winter food storage. As of today, March 16, we still have about 20 pounds of potatoes, 5 pounds each of carrots and parsnips, a pound of garlic, 10 apples (which we use for cooking, since they’re now too mealy to eat raw), 6 beets, 20 onions, 12 pomelo grapefruit (some friends from California brought them up here, in season, for Thanksgiving), 10 winter squash, and 3 pumpkins in storage, uncooked. And there are plenty of cooked, leftover beets and squash in the fridge. Our only casualties were two or three suicidal squash, and the Proctor Farmers Market opens a week from Saturday. We made it! I’m not even sick of squash yet (sure am sick of beets, though), and not one time did I break down and buy California strawberries or Argentinian spinach at the grocery store—a personal best.

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As a footnote, there are a few things we buy that can’t be bought locally or stored seasonally. The things that can’t be grown here, but can come from California (Valencia oranges for juicing, mostly), we’ll buy occasionally. We can’t make soup stock without celery (part of the celery-carrot-onion Soup Stock Triumvirate), and since it won’t keep in the root cellar without an elaborate dirt-and-burlap system, we buy that year-round, too. Dried herbs, spices, tea, coffee, and chocolate are in, but tropical produce—bananas, pineapples, papayas, mangoes, etc.—no matter how much we love it, is usually out (mangoes are a once-a-year treat), because of the fossil fuel required to transport it.

The produce, though, is only part of the sustainability equation. We do most of our shopping, except for meats, dairy, and seafood—more on that in another post—at Madison Market, a member-owned food co-op in Seattle (Tacoma doesn’t have one yet, though we’re working on it), where we can be sure to find a wide range of organics, where the place of origin for every item is labeled, and where we can support local, non-corporate business. We’ve found, though, that even at the hippiest of co-ops, we still stick out like a sore thumb, because our cart looks like this:

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That’s because with the exception of some specialty items, we buy nearly everything in bulk (even some household supplies like shampoo and soap), using our own odd mish-mash of salvaged, vintage, and reused containers.

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This is the incredible bulk section at our co-op, which we’re lucky to have. But even if we didn’t have a co-op in the area, most natural food stores and even many conventional grocery stores have bulk sections. For us, this is the secret to why we can afford to buy organic for our entire food supply.

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This particular bulk department has all of the standard staples (flour, sugar, cornmeal, whole grains, etc.),

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many unusual items (like kamut or mung beans) and fun stuff (popcorn, chocolate chips, nuts, raisins, etc.),

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even many varieties of pasta (I love the spaghetti and lasagna drawers).

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My favorites? Grind-em-yourself organic nut butters, at a price comparable to the commercial stuff ($3.99 a pound for peanut butter). A jar of crunchy JIF at our local conventional grocery store goes for $3.49 for an 18 oz. jar, and adds the following ingredients: sugar, salt, molasses, partially hydrogenated soybean oil, and fully hydrogenated vegetable oil. Lovely. The organic hippie peanut butter ingredients? Just peanuts. It’s so good we usually just eat it right out of the jar, by the spoonful.

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Another bonus is that each product is labeled with nutrition information, location of origin, and preparation instructions. But the best part, other than the organic bit, is that all of this bulk stuff is either comparably priced or even cheaper than packaged food. The huge savings comes with fancy-pants items like dried cranberries, wild rice, and arborio rice (since risotto is a staple for me, we buy a lot of this stuff).

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Here’s how it works: we save every usable container that comes our way (tins, mason jars, old spice bottles; we try to use only metal, wood and glass, but there are a few exceptions, like our ancient Tupperware canisters), and stick a piece of masking tape on each one. At the co-op, we have each container weighed at the deli stand—this is the really important part, because each item is sold by weight. If your glass jar weights 1.5 pounds, and you buy 3 oz of something expensive, you don’t want to be overcharged for it! So we write the weight (called the “tare weight”) of the container on the tape. Then, above that, we write put the PLU (item) number of whatever is in that container. This is mostly done on the honor system, but they can certainly check your items if you say your container weighs 27 pounds, or if your jar contains macadamia nuts and you labeled it as flour. If you aren’t insane like we are, and don’t come to the store with three dozen tins and jars (and since people always comment when we go, and I never see anybody else doing this, I’m guessing most people don’t), there are paper bags to put your bulk items in. We reuse containers not only to cut down on packaging and waste, but also so that when we get home, we can just put them right in the cupboard and we’re done.

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Because we have to do most of our shopping in Seattle, we usually only do this every six to eight weeks. So of course that makes us The Weirdos with the Tupperware, and creates a bit of a spectacle at the checkout counter. But the employees always tell us how happy they are to see us doing this, so I don’t think they mind entering in all those tare weights.

As I said earlier, it’s possible to do this at lots of stores, and not just co-ops—but I should add that it’s not always as easy at those places. The biggest reason for this is that at high-end grocery stores like Metropolitan Market and Whole Foods, the vast majority of their customers use the store’s plastic and paper containers for their purchases—so their check stands aren’t usually set up to handle heavier, reusable containers. So unless you remember to teach the cashier how to do the math manually, you risk being overcharged. I’m somewhat dismayed that these “green” grocery stores haven’t gotten with the program yet (in my book, further evidence that their “green” claims are a bunch of marketing hooey), but if people like us continue to be a pain in the rear end, things will change.

I realize that people without cars or co-ops might not be able to shop only every couple of months. But since we started doing this several years ago, we’ve seen some very positive side effects—including a huge drop in impulse spending, and the ability to make spontaneous meals for unexpected guests. Also, since if we forget something we have to go without it for two months, we’ve gotten very good at planning meals and keeping track of what we have. Another benefit of shopping at these intervals is that as members, we receive a 10% off coupon every month (you don’t have to be a member to shop there, though), and with larger orders that translates to a big discount.

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Whenever we tell this story to others, they invariably say, “I’d buy organic food, too, but I can’t afford it.” Yes, organic convenience food is very expensive, but since it’s also processed, it’s really no better for us than conventional junk food. The key lies in sticking to ingredients, rather than store-bought meals. I’m going to get more in depth into our household economics in the next post, but since we only buy staples, and very rarely eat out, we don’t spend nearly as much on food as people think. According to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, the average American household spent $6,443 on food alone in 2008—$3,744 eating at home, and $2,698 eating out. For our household, that would come out to be about $8.82 per person, per day. We added up all of our food expenses from last year, and between buying all-organic groceries, cooking from scratch, and eating out about once a month, we spent about $8.22 per person, per day in 2009. Slightly less than the national average. That’s pretty darn good.

As I’ve said before, these are simply choices we’ve made, and we feel it makes our lives healthier and better. Plus, buying in bulk with reused containers has the added benefit of producing zero waste—I was shocked when it dawned on me that what I used to throw away was almost entirely made up of packaging! The amount of non-recyclable, non-compostable trash we produce now amounts to one small grocery bag or less—some weeks we don’t even take out the trash, because there’s nothing to take out.

We’re not out to convert anyone, and we’re not completely puritan about it—we eat conventional food in restaurants, we still go out for (local!) ice cream, we make compromises for things like citrus fruit, and we’ll never refuse a meal offered at a friend or relative’s house. I’m not writing about this because I want to change anybody else’s habits (although I’d love to change some things about the American agricultural industry)—but because people ask. All the time.

And I also write about our food choices because this really wasn’t such a hard change to make. Slow, yes, but not difficult. I find now, a few years later, that I get sick far less often, that when I’m hungry I crave nutritional foods instead of junk, and that my palette is more refined (no small feat, considering that I have almost no sense of smell), just because I gave up processed food. The amazing thing is that for the most part, I don’t miss my old habits.

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I’d do it all again in a heartbeat—I only wish I’d done it sooner.

Okay, so this post isn’t actually about Turkish Delight, but it does contain a delightful Turkish recipe, and it’s what real Turkish Delight would be if I ran the world.

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This exotic dessert is another favorite dish of ours—a recipe from the Tailor’s friends in Istanbul. I crave it pretty much all the time, and come January I’ll start bugging the Tailor incessantly until he finally hauls out the scale and sugar. But since it’s fairly labor-intensive, and depends on the seasonality of the pumpkins we store in the attic, we usually only get to enjoy it a couple of times a year. Trust me, though, it’s well worth the effort, and is one of the most elegant, flavorful and visually appealing desserts I’ve ever tasted (just look at that gorgeous translucent pumpkin!). Try it next time you have a special occasion and you want an alternative to pumpkin pie (no disrespect to my favorite pie, of course!).

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Candied Pumpkin

You’ll need: one small-to medium sugar pie pumpkin, one scale, and a whole lotta sugar.

Wash and peel your pumpkin (I’m not going to lie: peeling ain’t fun).

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Cut it in half and remove the stem and innards.

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Weigh the pumpkin; get as precise a measurement as you can, because this is important. Note: since our scale is metric, and since the original recipe is written in metric (those Turks!), we don’t bother to convert back. So all the measurements in this post are metric—if you need to convert to the English system, there are lots of online conversion calculators. And the ratios in this recipe are pretty straightforward, so conversion really won’t be difficult. A word of caution, though: double- and triple-check your converted measurements! If one of your proportions is wrong, you’ll have gone through a lot of work (and pumpkin) for a failed mess.

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Now it’s time to make your algebra teacher proud—get out a pen and paper and write up a little proportion equation. You will need 750 g of sugar (we use that raw organic cane stuff) for every kilogram of pumpkin—that’s a 3:4 ratio (by weight, remember, not volume!), if you’re converting.

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Slice each half of the pumpkin in half again, and then slice each quarter into strips, about 1 1/2 inches wide.

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Place the pumpkin strips in a heavy-bottomed stock pot and pour your carefully-measured sugar over the pumpkin.

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Cover and let sit overnight (or at least six hours). The sugar will draw the water out of the pumpkin and shrink the slices, resulting in smaller pumpkin pieces floating in syrup.

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Over low heat, bring the sugar/pumpkin mixture to a simmer. Stirring gently every 15 minutes or so, cook the pumpkin for about 1.5 to 2 hours, or until all the pumpkin pieces are translucent—this finishes the candying process. The thicker the slices, the longer this will take.

Turn off the heat, and allow the candied pumpkin to cool to room temperature. Transfer to a covered refrigerator dish and chill. Serve in small portions, sprinkled with chopped pecans for a nice contrasting texture.

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Candied pumpkin will keep in the refrigerator for at least ten days, but it doesn’t freeze well, so serve it fresh and enjoy it while it lasts! Try to refrain from sticking your face into the bowl to slurp up every last drop of syrup—but I’ll understand if you can’t.

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If you’ve been reading this blog for awhile, or you’ve met me or the Tailor, you already know about our penchant for storing food and taking seasonal eating to hardcore extremes. But our nuttiness about walking the talk extends far beyond the pantry. Another aspect of our attempts to live as sustainably as we can is our rejection of synthetic materials. Now, we’ll never live entirely free from petroleum products—we drive a car. We own a refrigerator, a stereo and a plethora of records, tapes, CDs and DVDs. I use a computer, a scanner, a digital camera, and a host of accompanying accessories. I’m not about to buy underwear with a button waist. I gleefully print with photopolymer plates. And we just can’t let go of our small, sentimental collection of deliciously hideous, ancient Tupperware. But all things considered, you’d be hard-pressed to find much plastic in our house. Whenever possible we buy clothing, tools, containers, furniture, and everything else made purely from natural materials: wood, metal, glass, cotton, linen, wool, silk, bamboo, cork, bone, shell. Much of the time, nowadays, that means we have to look for vintage versions of whatever we’re shopping for, but you’d be surprised at what’s available—as long as one is willing to search for it. I know how extreme this position is—and believe me, it’s not something that can be done overnight. This is a process years in the making, and just the fact that we’re still working at it (and probably always will) shows that it’s not for everyone, and certainly not the only solution out there. But the biggest benefit of it all is how long-lasting our belongings are—and when things break, they can usually be mended, rather than thrown away and replaced.

The biggest downside, however, is that by choosing this path we also choose to abstain from some creature comforts and cultural elements that are dated from after the advent of plastic. Most of the time I don’t miss it—or even notice anything lacking. But right now, during the holiday season, I have a fierce craving for twinkle lights that I just have to resist (if anyone can find me twinkle lights made entirely of glass bulbs, metal wire and cloth cord, I’ll be all over it).

Even with our solemn vows to thwart plastic, our search for a Christmas tree left us in some doubt (I grew up with an artificial tree, and have only had one Christmas tree of my own—a real one, three years ago). Is it better to buy a fake tree once or intentionally kill fifty-odd living evergreens in one’s lifetime? Which is worse—fossil fuels or deforestation? How about burning fossil fuels on our way to deforest a section of land?! (The irony of the freshly-killed tree tied to a hippie Subaru in the above photo isn’t lost on me.) And can one family really do so much damage just by celebrating the holidays, or should we just stop worrying so much?

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In the end, we followed the same instincts we rely on for our choice to remain omnivores: we decided on a real tree (after all, we do live in a place with abundant trees that shoot up fast, thanks to our rainy climate), as long as it could be culled responsibly. So we called up some friends who own land near Olympia, and as luck would have it, there were some young Douglas-firs on their property that were scheduled to be removed in the spring.

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A little elbow grease later, we had our Christmas tree.

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It doesn’t have the textbook perfection of a farmed tree, but it looks lovely in the living room, bedecked in handmade and vintage ornaments (I think there are exactly four plastic items contained therein). And as we decorated it on the solstice, I privately gave thanks to the land for contributing to our holiday.

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Now that we live in a house with a fireplace, we can finally hang the stockings by the chimney with care. And with a fireplace comes a mantel just begging to be decorated.

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So another friend invited us to clip some holly branches (holly is a beautiful but noxious weed around here, so pruning is always welcome) from his back yard, and with the help of a little steel wire I whipped up a Christmas garland.

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We used a bit of leftover holly and some cedar prunings for a wreath, and suddenly it was Christmas at our house. So maybe I don’t have my beloved twinkle lights, but somehow it feels better this way. We had a big holiday potluck last night, with thirty or so people crammed into our living and dining rooms, bellowing carol harmonies and exploding crackers and cheering when the Tailor poured blue-flaming brandy on the plum pudding. And nearly every one of them said it felt like their grandmother’s house, or their childhood traditions, or what they imagined of Christmases past. So maybe I don’t so much need that string of lights.

Still, since the moment we decided on a real tree I’ve been reminded of my favorite Robert Frost poem—which might make me all the more conscious of our choice, but also more appreciative of the holiday in general. After all, a Christmas tree is something the city “could not do without and keep its Christmas.”

Christmas Trees
(A Christmas Circular Letter)

The city had withdrawn into itself
And left at last the country to the country;
When between whirls of snow not come to lie
And whirls of foliage not yet laid, there drove
A stranger to our yard, who looked the city,
Yet did in country fashion in that there
He sat and waited till he drew us out
A-buttoning coats to ask him who he was.
He proved to be the city come again
To look for something it had left behind
And could not do without and keep its Christmas.
He asked if I would sell my Christmas trees;
My woods—the young fir balsams like a place
Where houses all are churches and have spires.
I hadn’t thought of them as Christmas Trees.
I doubt if I was tempted for a moment
To sell them off their feet to go in cars
And leave the slope behind the house all bare,
Where the sun shines now no warmer than the moon.
I’d hate to have them know it if I was.
Yet more I’d hate to hold my trees except
As others hold theirs or refuse for them,
Beyond the time of profitable growth,
The trial by market everything must come to.
I dallied so much with the thought of selling.
Then whether from mistaken courtesy
And fear of seeming short of speech, or whether
From hope of hearing good of what was mine,
I said, “There aren’t enough to be worth while.”
“I could soon tell how many they would cut,
You let me look them over.”

“You could look.
But don’t expect I’m going to let you have them.”
Pasture they spring in, some in clumps too close
That lop each other of boughs, but not a few
Quite solitary and having equal boughs
All round and round. The latter he nodded “Yes” to,
Or paused to say beneath some lovelier one,
With a buyer’s moderation, “That would do.”
I thought so too, but wasn’t there to say so.
We climbed the pasture on the south, crossed over,
And came down on the north.
He said, “A thousand.”

“A thousand Christmas trees!—at what apiece?”

He felt some need of softening that to me:
“A thousand trees would come to thirty dollars.”

Then I was certain I had never meant
To let him have them. Never show surprise!
But thirty dollars seemed so small beside
The extent of pasture I should strip, three cents
(For that was all they figured out apiece),
Three cents so small beside the dollar friends
I should be writing to within the hour
Would pay in cities for good trees like those,
Regular vestry-trees whole Sunday Schools
Could hang enough on to pick off enough.
A thousand Christmas trees I didn’t know I had!
Worth three cents more to give away than sell,
As may be shown by a simple calculation.
Too bad I couldn’t lay one in a letter.
I can’t help wishing I could send you one,
In wishing you herewith a Merry Christmas.

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For months now we’ve been finding new ways to use our stores of dried, home-canned and preserved blueberries. But we almost forgot about the containers of fresh berries we threw in the freezer—and on this unseasonably cold* morning, whipping up a little reminder of summer seemed like a good idea.

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So the Tailor fired up the Cast-Iron Stovetop High-Collared No. 8 Griswold Waffle Iron™ (say that five times fast!), and we had ourselves a good old-fashioned hot breakfast—which, incidentally, goes great with the homemade blueberry syrup above, but the Tailor won’t share that recipe, I’m afraid.

No-Kiddin’ Waffles

2 ¼ cup flour
4 tsp. baking powder
¾ tsp. salt
1 ½ Tbsp. sugar
2 eggs, beaten
2 ¼ cup whole milk
½ cup oil (we use Canola)

Sift the flour, baking powder and salt three times, then add the sugar. In a separate bowl, mix the beaten eggs, milk and oil. Add this to the dry ingredients and mix thoroughly. While some people like to make their batter ahead of time, we’re firm believers in using fresh-fresh-fresh batter. So for best results, make your waffles right then and there.

Oil your cast-iron waffle iron well before starting. Heat both sides of the iron thoroughly (the advantage of a high-collared iron like this is even heating and plenty of room to flip waffles), and remember to apply oil after every third or fourth waffle—a bristle brush is handy for this.

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Use a 1/2 cup measure to dip batter—one dip per waffle—and pour the batter into the center of the iron. When you close the lid, the batter will wick evenly into all the nooks and crannies.

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Cook the waffle for 3-4 minutes (peek occasionally to make sure your iron isn’t too hot!), flipping frequently—every thirty seconds or so. The best part (other than the flipping, that is)? Waffles are kind of like pizza—you can jazz them up however you like with your favorite breakfast condiments. But eat ‘em fast—a jazzed-up waffle will get cold and soggy** before too long.

That’s never a worry around here, though—these babies get gobbled up long before the next waffle is ready!

* I know all you Minnesotans are rolling your eyes at this declaration, but a nighttime temperature of 17°F is enough to force us to rescue our squash colony from the attic, which isn’t insulated for “real” winter. So until the attic temperature stays above freezing, our pumpkins and butternuts are living in the spare bedroom like edible houseguests—definitely one of the less glamorous aspects of living seasonally.

** I’m really into the specific heat of foods. Mashed potatoes? High specific heat. Fresh waffles? Sadly low.

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Now that we live in a vacation destination, we tend to get a lot of out-of-town visitors. We have a list of favorite places to take first-timers, so we can often be found at places like the Pike Place Market, Point Defiance, and Mt. Rainier National Park with house guests in tow. When a pair of French foodies arrive on your doorstep, however, it’s a whole ‘nother ballgame. Our friends Gilles and Jean-Philippe had just one major request for their visit last weekend: mushroom hunting. Since it’s chanterelle season and the weather was good, Saturday seemed like a good day to lace up our hiking boots and grab our pocket knives.

Disclaimer: the Tailor and I are not experienced mushroom gatherers, so we’d never try this on our own—incorrectly identifying edible fungi is not a mistake one wants to make. Even the most detailed books can’t replace the presence of a skilled guide, so if you don’t have your own French mycophile on hand to take you hunting, skip the risk and buy a bag of chanterelles at the farmers market!

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As far as dinner ingredients go, we came away empty-handed—the conditions just weren’t right. But as a crash course in the sheer diversity of local fungi, it was a spectacular day; we found several dozen different varieties ranging from beautiful to bizarre; delicate to disgusting.

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We did find a few edible species (these orange peel cups were a beautiful and exciting highlight), but nothing worth turning into a meal. So the day turned out to be more of a scientific field trip—certainly a worthwhile adventure in its own right.

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When we got home, Gilles spread out our haul and set to work identifying, making us laugh whenever he called out something strange (stinkhorn, elfin saddle, hedgehog—called sheep’s foot or pied-de-mouton in France).

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As for me, all this mushroom-naming reminded me of the newest addition to my reference library: the stunning Pictorial Webster’s, by book artist John Carrera (for a mind-blowing art experience, check out the video on the process behind the book here). So I took a page out of his book (sorry, I couldn’t resist), and did a little visual taxonomy of my own.

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Jean-Philippe, meanwhile, had the best idea yet: purchasing a pound or two of fresh chanterelles, and putting his mad French cooking skills to work. The sumptuous champignons dish he whipped up disappeared into our mouths long before I thought to grab the camera, but I did remember to ask for the recipe:

Chanterelles à l’improvisation

– 1 1/2 pounds fresh chanterelle mushrooms, halved
– 1/2 cup bacon (3 slices or so)
– 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
– 4 to 5 Tbsp olive oil
– 1/4 cup dry white wine (the Muscadet we had on hand was great)
– dry parsley to taste (fresh is better, but we didn’t have any)
– salt and pepper to taste

Brown the bacon until crisp, then break into small pieces. In a separate, large pan (so as not to overpower the mushrooms with the flavor of bacon fat), sautée the onions in olive oil over medium-low heat until lightly browned. Add the chanterelles, bacon, salt, pepper, and white wine, and sautée until the mushrooms are slightly limp and drained of most of their water content (oh, say 5 or 6 minutes). Season with parsley at the very end, then serve either alone or over brown rice. Watch the dinner conversation devolve into a series of satisfied grunts.

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If you had seen our back porch last weekend, you’d probably think we were starting our own farmers market. But this is a typical sight for many seasonal foodies like us; when you swear off strawberries in January, you need enough fresh autumn fruits and veggies to last you until the end of April (notwithstanding my usual February freak-out where I cave in to a craving or two for salad).

We still have quite a ways to go yet, but we’re working hard to fill our root cellar, attic, freezer and pantry shelves with a wide variety of staples and goodies to keep our winter diet interesting. Here’s what we’ve got so far:

In the root cellar:
– 20 lbs. onions
– 10 lbs. apples (still need 2 bushels)
– 10 lbs. potatoes (still need at least 80 lbs., plus a bushel of carrots and parsnips)
– 9 bottles of wine

In the freezer:
– 4 lbs. locally cured, nitrate-free bacon
– 5 whole, local “Rosie” chickens
– various cuts of local, organic meat (all, with the chicken and bacon, from the fantastic Meat Shop of Tacoma)
– various cuts of venison, provided by my father-in-law

In the refrigerator:
– 5 lbs. fresh cranberries (for canning; more to come)
– 2 or 3 red cabbages
– 6 or so honeycrisp apples (which don’t keep long but are my favorite kind)
1 bunch celeriac root now in my belly—yum!
– 1 lb. garlic

In the pantry:
– 25 lbs. rolled oats
– 5 lbs. steel-cut oats
– 10 lbs. coarse-ground grits (not local, obviously, but the Mill is definitely a mom n’ pop operation)
– at least 6 different kinds of rice
– 30 lbs. sugar (mostly for canning)
– 3 quarts local, single-source honey
– 15 or so different varieties of loose-leaf tea

The Tailor’s 2009 home preserving yield to date:
– 5.5 quarts dried blueberries
– 6 pints blueberry syrup
– 5 pints canned whole blueberries
– 9 pints blueberry jam
– 9.5 pints blackberry jam
– 8.5 pints raspberry jam
– 6 pints strawberry jam
– 15 pints canned heirloom tomatoes
– 16 pints tomato sauce
– still to come: apple butter, apple sauce, cranberry sauce, chicken broth

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And then there’s the winter squash in the attic: one of my favorite parts of the season, and of living and eating in the Pacific Northwest.

In the attic:
– 14 sugar pie pumpkins
– 8 kabocha squash
– 7 delicata squash
– 6 carnival squash
– 7 acorn squash
– 6 butternut squash
– 3 spaghetti squash
– 1 mini hubbard squash
– 1 jarrahdale pumpkin

Okay, we might have gone a little overboard on the squash, but I never get tired of it, and it’s an important staple of a seasonal diet. We keep these babies in the attic because they last much longer there—pumpkins and squash prefer a cool, dry environment to the cool humidity of the cellar. Our squash colony is a big conversation piece, and we get a lot of questions about pumpkin storage, so I’ll share the scoop:

First, choose squash and pumpkins with intact stems—those that have had their stems snapped off won’t last long. Next, make sure your squash was harvested before the first hard freeze; post-freeze specimens rot fast. Check around the stem and on the bottom end for any mold, rot, blemishes, damage, or sogginess. Now it’s time to sock them away—an attic is best, but anywhere that’s cool, dry and dark will work fine (but never let them freeze! During a cold snap last year we had to haul them all down into the living room when the attic hit 32 degrees!). Don’t stack your squash; just like apples, a rotten squash can infect any neighbors it touches. Instead, we make little “nests” for them by crumpling up newspaper and cushioning each one individually, in a single layer. As long as they’re unblemished and in good shape, and stored carefully, many varieties will last until at least March. Spaghetti squash will often keep until April, but sadly, butternut (my absolute favorite) tends to have the shortest lifespan. So eat those first, and relish every bite.

I feel like a little pumpkin pie. How about you?

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Autumn is, hands-down, my favorite time of year. So many of the things I love about fall have to do with food (mulled cider, pumpkin pie, spiced apples, butternut squash, fried green tomatoes, celeriac—the list goes on and on), and since the Tailor and I eat as seasonally and locally as we can, it’s a darn good thing we live in a state with such abundant produce at hand.

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Both T-town and Seattle have incredible open-air markets (hello, Pike Place? I love you.), but my favorite of all is the quietly-unassuming Olympia Farmers Market. Our state capital might not be the hoppin’ tourist hub that downtown Seattle is, but Olympia’s gigantic, spectacular market is one of the best I’ve ever seen, anywhere.

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This is the place where you can find around forty different types of Washington apples, and another dozen or so kinds of pears (above are Asian pears, which count as honorary apples in my book).

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And there’s plenty of everything else, too. The sheer variety is staggering, and distracting—especially when your mission for the day is to buy just one variety of overwintering apples for your root cellar.

Though I must say, I love seeing the transformation from this:

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To this:

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Ingredients for a perfect Sunday: crisp sunny weather, countless apple bins to dig through, a handful of friendly Olympians, and a dash of live bluegrass music for spice.

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The apples are always a show-stopper, but our biggest goal for the day was something we can’t get at any of the three Tacoma farmers markets:

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Fresh cranberries. Olympia is the first stop for cranberries coming in from the coast, and the season is now in full swing. We took home just five pounds this time, but you can bet we’ll be back for more. The Tailor and I have a deep and abiding love for cranberry sauce (it’s great on grits. Don’t look at me like that.), and we kicked off this year’s harvest by finishing off the last jar of our 2008 canning crop.

Homemade cranberry sauce is an incredibly easy thing—so much so that I really don’t understand why so many recipes call for Jello. Cranberries have so much natural pectin in them that with enough sugar they’ll jell on their own. In any event, the Tailor and I believe that cranberry sauce should be a sauce, not a can-shaped cylinder of jelly. So in honor of those little rubies from our rugged coast, here is our favorite recipe:

Cranberry sauce

– 1 lb. fresh cranberries, washed and drained
– 2 c. water
– 1 1/2 c. sugar

Combine the water and sugar and bring to a boil in a small saucepan. Boil for about two minutes on high before stirring in the cranberries. Put the lid on and listen; when the cranberries start popping like crazy and the sauce has begun to foam up, it’s done. This takes less than five minutes. Serve hot or cold (or on grits!).

Note: remember to put that lid on, or you’ll have hot, popping cranberries everywhere!

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The season is turning ’round these parts—it seems the whole world is tinged with hints of red and gold. We had another warm weekend, but I’m not fooled; behind the hot sun are chill mornings and the rush of the harvest.

So it was another canning weekend for the Tailor, supplied by our latest farmer’s market haul and our final trip to the Blueberry Park for the year. We had to work hard for it yesterday, but amongst the nearly-spent, now-crimson bushes, we found just enough berries for one more batch of jam. Our total haul for the year? Over fourteen gallons of blueberries! In the spring we’ll return the favor by volunteering.

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There’s no time to pine for berry season, though—now we’re up to our eyeballs in heirloom tomatoes (like these beauties from our friends at Zestful Gardens, splashed with a little oil and balsamic). And soon it’ll be time to get the root cellar and attic ready for a winter’s worth of squash, onions, potatoes, and pumpkins (more on that later). Marking transitions is my favorite part of eating seasonally, and autumn is my favorite time of year. I’ll be ready for fall’s bounty—camera in one hand, fork in the other.

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Good gravy, has it really been that long?

Sorry about the long, awkward silence, folks. Here at Chez Anagram we’ve got some serious sketching, sewing, stamping, sawing, stirring, scribbling, and, well, scrambling goin’ on. So this is just a quick gasp of air at the surface before I dive back in.

I’ve got a few things to show and tell, but they need a little tweaking first. In the meantime, I’ve finally found something that goes with our scarlet-tile countertops. Just thought I’d share.

See you soon.